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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Does anybody have one? i'm looking at getting one so i can swap it out with my 16" Gas-Piston upper for some target shooting...

what did you pay for it? Where from? brand? worth the money, or go with a 20? 18?

thanks
 
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Depends on what range you are planning on shooting it. Unless you're lobbing shots at 1,000 yards, the only difference you'll see with a 24" is that its heavier.

For most people's uses, 18" midlength is probably more than enough. If you ever plan on going much past 600 yards or so, 20" might be worth it.
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Of course you'll get a bit more accuracy out of the 24" .. but I don't see the value unless like Rob said, you're going for the really long ranges. Snag a 20" A3/4 Free Float it and you'll be able to reach beyond 600M fairly easily. Plus because there are so many of them in the channel they really aren't that expensive.
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Of course you'll get a bit more accuracy out of the 24" .. but I don't see the value unless like Rob said, you're going for the really long ranges. Snag a 20" A3/4 Free Float it and you'll be able to reach beyond 600M fairly easily. Plus because there are so many of them in the channel they really aren't that expensive.
So i'll drop it down to 18/20", who makes a good Freefloat? RRA? i expect they have the best bang for the buck...

i'll need one with the bolt carrier/charging handle, too. i'm sure they sell those... thanks!
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Of course you'll get a bit more accuracy out of the 24" ..

There are some serious arguments against this. You will get more velocity going from 20" to 24", and therefore less bullet drop at various distances, but a longer barrel is not inherently more accurate than another, especially if you're shooting at fixed distances. Read Tubb's book "The competitive AR-15" if you get a chance. He talks about harmonics and inconsistencies that can disrupt a bullet in a longer barrel.

(Not to start an argument, Badshot.) :-D

I have a 20" AR bull barrel from DPMS, and it's an awesome tackdriver. I think the 24" would be a little unwieldy as I also take my AR along on coyote hunts, but life's too short. Shoot what you like!

Also, 24" is a little more popular configuration for open-sighted spaceguns, if not just for the fact that it gives you a longer sight radius.
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
There are some serious arguments against this. You will get more velocity going from 20" to 24", and therefore less bullet drop at various distances, but a longer barrel is not inherently more accurate than another, especially if you're shooting at fixed distances. Read Tubb's book "The competitive AR-15" if you get a chance. He talks about harmonics and inconsistencies that can disrupt a bullet in a longer barrel.
There is truth to this. If you took the same barrel blank and made 16" and 24" barrels out of it, then theoretically the 16" would yield a slightly greater degree of accuracy. Now would you be able to realize this difference? I doubt it. Unless you're planning on shooting in benchrest competitions, you wont see a bit of it.

A good, 16" or 18" barrel will give up nothing except velocity to its longer cousins.
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I have two LR Sniper/Target ARs. One AR-10TLW (Armalite) and one AR-15 (Colt w/ Wilson barrel). They both have 24" heavy stainless barrels. Yes, they are heavy. I have another one that is a 20" heavy regular barrel (Colt). I've only shot the two with the 24" barrels at distance.

I like to know that I'm getting as much velocity as possible out of the round for the distance shots. You just might need that extra energy.

I haven't shot either of the long barrels in a few years but I'm getting ready to start again (this fall). I'm probably going to work them in the 100-400 yrd. ranges.
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
There are some serious arguments against this. You will get more velocity going from 20" to 24", and therefore less bullet drop at various distances, but a longer barrel is not inherently more accurate than another, especially if you're shooting at fixed distances. Read Tubb's book "The competitive AR-15" if you get a chance. He talks about harmonics and inconsistencies that can disrupt a bullet in a longer barrel.

(Not to start an argument, Badshot.) :-D
It's all good, and if you do check the harmonics issue, it's with A. Lighter rounds (55 and 62grn.) B. Light/flutted FF barrels. The HB's really do suck up a bunch of that issue. Then again these are the same issues that we see in higher end "Sniper Rifles" as well. Might explain why there is a resurgence of the 20-22" barrels in that arena :)

Heavy barrel, FF and hell if you really are worried about harmonics (snicker) you can get the composite wrapped barrels that are all that and a bag of chips + a hefty price tag :)

On average :) at the ranges we're really talking about, a 24" Hvy Barrel isn't going to suffer from enough issues to affect the average LR shooter.

As for who makes a good 20" upper and barrel.. well, what are you willing to pay? WhiteOak Armament (I think that's them) supposedly makes the cats meow in LR uppers.

You can have a typical 20" upper accuratized by a good smith for far less. If you don't need the tacticool railed for-end, just get the carbon fiber tube with swivel mounts, have the smith verify the barrel mating to the reciever, the crown and what ever else might be needed for the uber accurate 20" AR.

Me, my not so little 20" RRA HB with it's heavy arsed MI FF rails does all I need it to and more considering I'm not nearly good enough to go beyond the ability of the rifle. I typically shoot well below 400M .. 600M on an odd trip out or two a year and my rifle does it's job rather well.

 
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Nice. I like the MagPul stock - what rail are you using? I have a plain jane freefloat tube but I'm thinking about replacing it with a badger ordnance rail. Then again, it's not like I'm going to be putting lasers or lights on it. I need a sitting-height Harris for those 'yotes though.



Photo's a bit outdated - I moved the Simmons to my 17 HMR and bought a Burris Fullfield II 4.5-14x.
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
That is a Midwest Industries rail - http://www.bravocompanyusa.com/Midwest-Industries-MCTAR-22-p/mctar-22.htm - . I went with that one because A. it provides for a monolithic rail (contiguous rail from the upper through the end of the forend) and it didn't require the removal of the FSP. Just cut the delta ring off (again gawd bless dremel, yes sir..) and mount it. Locks up really good.

The PRS is a mighty fine stock, the adjustability is first rate and typical MagPul quality. Though I'm finding that it really isn't giving me anything that I didn't have from my ACE SOCOM L stock. I just have the cheek piece adjusted upwards a tad and that's about it. So given the weight it adds, I seriously thinking about selling it. It does look cool though doesn't it :)
 
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Interesting thread. Just wondering though. With the 24" on an AR... wouldn't the front sight be in the same location as a 20"? Therefore there would be no difference in sight picture/radius, no? Any differences in accuracy would therefor be totally barrel related, right?

Anyways, I'm happy with my 20". I can only imagine how much heavier the 24" would be once the bipod and scope are on it. The 20" is heavy enough when I put them on.
 
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Interesting thread. Just wondering though. With the 24" on an AR... wouldn't the front sight be in the same location as a 20"? Therefore there would be no difference in sight picture/radius, no? Any differences in accuracy would therefor be totally barrel related, right?
You got it
 
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