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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
A guy i work with is trying to sell me his ar. I dont know what kinda price he is talking yet. But it will be cheap between 200-400.I need some info on it though. The only markings on it are E.A. Co., right below that it says KR. SPR. LA., On the side where the roll mark goes it has te model number and it says J 15.. Any info would be great. My dad is thinking of buying this if the price is right and we are just trying to do some research.
 
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
A guy i work with is trying to sell me his ar. I dont know what kinda price he is talking yet. But it will be cheap between 200-400.I need some info on it though. The only markings on it are E.A. Co., right below that it says KR. SPR. LA., On the side where the roll mark goes it has te model number and it says J 15.. Any info would be great. My dad is thinking of buying this if the price is right and we are just trying to do some research.
E.A. = Essential Arms. I have an EA receiver and it has worked great for me. I'll dig on the markings.
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Okay...the KR. SPR. LA = Krotz Springs, Louisiana where it was manufactured.

Some folks are apprehensive about buying EA lowers because they were once cast parts. The one that I own is actually a cast part has been fine. I bought it back before the Clinton AWB. I'd push out the takedown pin and look inside of the receiver (no need for complete disassembly, IMO) and see if there are any cracks.
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
i just bought a s&w m&p15 tactical. The E.A. is signifficantly heavier. Feels like a diff metal. Also is there any way to dtermin what kind of upper is on it?
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
i just bought a s&w m&p15 tactical. The E.A. is signifficantly heavier. Feels like a diff metal. Also is there any way to dtermin what kind of upper is on it?
The only upper part that I can think would have (or should have) a marking is the barrel.
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
ok cool so what do you think he said it does not eject all the time, I pulled it apart last night and the spring under the extracter seems fairly soft to me. I can push it all the way down when compared to my new one that does not move at all. If I can get this gun for $300 or so, should i jump on it??
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
For the $300ish price range, I would buy it and then exchange the extractor & spring. Easy and cheap fix. You should probably also change the gas tube and buffer spring if the extractor spring doesn't fix it. Also cheap and easy fixes.

For the price, you'd have another AR in the closet or at worst, spare parts for your S&W.

My 2 cents worth
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
For the $300ish price range, I would buy it and then exchange the extractor & spring. Easy and cheap fix. You should probably also change the gas tube and buffer spring if the extractor spring doesn't fix it. Also cheap and easy fixes.

For the price, you'd have another AR in the closet or at worst, spare parts for your S&W.

My 2 cents worth
+1 I doubt the issue is with the extractor/spring. FTEs are more likely associated with issues in the gas system. For the money, I don't see where you would go wrong. ARs are easy to fix. And for all you know, it may just require a good cleaning. Even if you have to replace the gas tube, you're still walking away with an AR for a decent price. Just make sure you inspect the barrel carefully. If the barrel has problems (corrosion, scratches, etc), then the deal is much less appealing.
 
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
+1 I doubt the issue is with the extractor/spring. FTEs are more likely associated with issues in the gas system. For the money, I don't see where you would go wrong. ARs are easy to fix. And for all you know, it may just require a good cleaning. Even if you have to replace the gas tube, you're still walking away with an AR for a decent price. Just make sure you inspect the barrel carefully. If the barrel has problems (corrosion, scratches, etc), then the deal is much less appealing.
So still very new to Ar's how hard is it to take out the gas tube and clean? I pulled off the hand gaurds and dont look like it has ever been taken out. Im willing to bet if i clean it good it will probably fix the problem.
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
So still very new to Ar's how hard is it to take out the gas tube and clean? I pulled off the hand gaurds and dont look like it has ever been taken out. Im willing to bet if i clean it good it will probably fix the problem.
It's easy. You'll need a hammer & punch. Go to AR15.com and check out the BIY threads. There are step-by-step instructions.
 
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Removing or exchanging the gas tube is simple.

1 Unscrew the flash hider if it has one. (likely a 1/2 inch wrench). Heating the flash hider may also be necessary depending on who put it on.

2 Tap (drive) out 2 taper pins on the bottom of the front sight. (Hammer and punch)

3 pull the sight off the end of the barrel

4 tap out the roll pin that holds the gas tube in the front sight (hammer and punch again)

5 pull the tube out of the back of the sight
 
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Ok so I tried to shoot it just now, it seemed to eject fine, but it does not feed the next round correctly. If it feeds and seems ok when you pull the trigger is just clicks, and it puts a slight indention on the primer. Hope this does not hurt anything, but I took the bolt out of my brand new S&W and thats when if seemed to feed ok but still did not fire the second round..... Any advice? Still seem like a gas tube problem??
 
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Thats more than likely an issue with a soft hammer spring. Swap that out and try again... If I were you, for how cheap it is, I would just buy a lower parts kit from a good reputable manufacturer like RRA and swap everything out.

Should be a shooter from what it sounds like though.
 
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Thats more than likely an issue with a soft hammer spring. Swap that out and try again... If I were you, for how cheap it is, I would just buy a lower parts kit from a good reputable manufacturer like RRA and swap everything out.

Should be a shooter from what it sounds like though.
But why would it fire the first round everytime, and fail on the second.(the first being chambered with the charging handle, and the second being auto loaded.....
 
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Honestly, I'm trying to figure out what you mean that it doesn't feed the second round correctly.

Does it fully chamber the round or not?

From what you described, it sounds like it's not completely going into battery and that's likely why you're getting light primer strikes.

Clean the chamber. If this doesn't fix it, try a different buffer spring and known good magazine as well.

If I were a betting man, I would think there's a lot of melted lacquer coating from using Wolf ammo.
 
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Try the fwd assist before firing and see if you still get a light strike. If so, I would suspect the hammer spring. If not, then I suspect the recoil spring.
 
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
My bushmaster had a ftf on me the last time I went out to the range, I had to clean the chamber and the bolt carrier it had some really nasty gunky red jello looking stuff in it. I'm really ocd when it comes to cleaning my guns so I'm guessing this must have happened from the last I took it out and shot about 400 rounds of mixed ammo mostly Monarch steel with the red lacquer dipped casings. Strip it down and check the bolt and see if there's anything binding up, it should all move freely with very very little resistance if any.
 
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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I took the whole bolt assembly out of my brand new ar and put it in there and it did the same thing.It could be the chamber though.
 
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