I just started dialing in at 300 yards and have take my baby to a 600 range once....Boy's shoot <400 men >600+DanTheEldest said:I posted this on my "regular" AZ forum, but I'll throw it up over here, too.
I'm kicking around the idea of an AR build in the next year (or whenever cash flow permits), and I've got some basic issues decided, but need to bounce some things off the experts.
I'd like to build a varminter for practicing accuracy shooting, and Rock River's 24" complete upper with the Wilson stainless barrel and .223 Wylde chambering seems like a good foundation. See here for pic:
http://www.rockriverarms.com/item-detail.cfm?ID=AR0510X&storeid=1&image=uveop.gif&CFID=28143960&CFTOKEN=14575415
This leads me to my questions:
1) The ranges I shoot at will probably be between 100-300 yards. I've been told to use something heavier than 55-gr for longer distances, like a 69-gr bullet, and for that I should use the 1-8" twist rather than a 1-12" barrel. I could theoretically shoot some 5.56 also if I find a good deal on it, so keep that in mind (hence the Wylde chamber). Sound right? Yes, but a good compromise might be a 1-9 IT will provide the largest amount of stability to grain bullet for those distances. There's a good data chart out there regardin twist/barrle lenght and bullet weight out there (can't find it)
2) If I do go with the 1-8" barrel, I can still use the more common 55-gr for closer-in plinking, right?
1-8 will work just fine, but 1-9 will give you more options across more Grs. (IMHO)
3) I'm leaning toward a "conventional" rifle scope for the optics (nothing too fancy yet), so would the EOP upper be better than the standard flat-top? (The EOP raises the platform by 3/4" to better accomodate optics.)
I still would go with a Flat-top, again because more likey than not you'll change optics and range "type".
4) Would a single-stage or two-stage trigger be preferable? By it's very nature, this gun will most likely be slow-fired, and I don't know enough about the characteristics of the different triggers to make an educated decision.
Here's where I differ from most, I love a single stage, but if you look around the most like 2 stage.
5) Any suggestions for the brand of lower? I'm leaning toward Magpul's PRS for the stock, if that makes any difference.
The PRS Rocks...I will soon own one. Lower: RRA is good, as well as STAG.
I could probably learn long-distance shooting more cheaply with a standard bolt-gun, but I'd rather do it with an AR. They're so easily modified it seems like a great way to go. Thanks for reading--it's a bit long, but I'm planning on drawing on all the collective AR experience that inhabits this forum.![]()
AR questions--long
G
I posted this on my "regular" AZ forum, but I'll throw it up over here, too.
I'm kicking around the idea of an AR build in the next year (or whenever cash flow permits), and I've got some basic issues decided, but need to bounce some things off the experts.
I'd like to build a varminter for practicing accuracy shooting, and Rock River's 24" complete upper with the Wilson stainless barrel and .223 Wylde chambering seems like a good foundation. See here for pic:
http://www.rockriverarms.com/item-detail.cfm?ID=AR0510X&storeid=1&image=uveop.gif&CFID=28143960&CFTOKEN=14575415
This leads me to my questions:
1) The ranges I shoot at will probably be between 100-300 yards. I've been told to use something heavier than 55-gr for longer distances, like a 69-gr bullet, and for that I should use the 1-8" twist rather than a 1-12" barrel. I could theoretically shoot some 5.56 also if I find a good deal on it, so keep that in mind (hence the Wylde chamber). Sound right?
2) If I do go with the 1-8" barrel, I can still use the more common 55-gr for closer-in plinking, right?
3) I'm leaning toward a "conventional" rifle scope for the optics (nothing too fancy yet), so would the EOP upper be better than the standard flat-top? (The EOP raises the platform by 3/4" to better accomodate optics.)
4) Would a single-stage or two-stage trigger be preferable? By it's very nature, this gun will most likely be slow-fired, and I don't know enough about the characteristics of the different triggers to make an educated decision.
5) Any suggestions for the brand of lower? I'm leaning toward Magpul's PRS for the stock, if that makes any difference.
I could probably learn long-distance shooting more cheaply with a standard bolt-gun, but I'd rather do it with an AR. They're so easily modified it seems like a great way to go. Thanks for reading--it's a bit long, but I'm planning on drawing on all the collective AR experience that inhabits this forum.
![]()
I'm kicking around the idea of an AR build in the next year (or whenever cash flow permits), and I've got some basic issues decided, but need to bounce some things off the experts.
I'd like to build a varminter for practicing accuracy shooting, and Rock River's 24" complete upper with the Wilson stainless barrel and .223 Wylde chambering seems like a good foundation. See here for pic:
http://www.rockriverarms.com/item-detail.cfm?ID=AR0510X&storeid=1&image=uveop.gif&CFID=28143960&CFTOKEN=14575415
This leads me to my questions:
1) The ranges I shoot at will probably be between 100-300 yards. I've been told to use something heavier than 55-gr for longer distances, like a 69-gr bullet, and for that I should use the 1-8" twist rather than a 1-12" barrel. I could theoretically shoot some 5.56 also if I find a good deal on it, so keep that in mind (hence the Wylde chamber). Sound right?
2) If I do go with the 1-8" barrel, I can still use the more common 55-gr for closer-in plinking, right?
3) I'm leaning toward a "conventional" rifle scope for the optics (nothing too fancy yet), so would the EOP upper be better than the standard flat-top? (The EOP raises the platform by 3/4" to better accomodate optics.)
4) Would a single-stage or two-stage trigger be preferable? By it's very nature, this gun will most likely be slow-fired, and I don't know enough about the characteristics of the different triggers to make an educated decision.
5) Any suggestions for the brand of lower? I'm leaning toward Magpul's PRS for the stock, if that makes any difference.
I could probably learn long-distance shooting more cheaply with a standard bolt-gun, but I'd rather do it with an AR. They're so easily modified it seems like a great way to go. Thanks for reading--it's a bit long, but I'm planning on drawing on all the collective AR experience that inhabits this forum.
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
G
I've heard that the 1-9" barrel is nice too, but Rock River only offers 1-8 and 1-12 as options (at least on their website--I could call and find out if 1-9" is available). I'd like to order the upper/barrel assy. completely built, because then I wouldn't have to worry about headspacing and all the other stuff that comes with a barrel install.
I might get out to 600 yards at some point, but I've got to learn the fundamentals first.
I might get out to 600 yards at some point, but I've got to learn the fundamentals first.
G
Subscribing.
G
100-300 yards is iron sight distance. Want to learn the real fundamentals, get this gun:DanTheEldest said:I might get out to 600 yards at some point, but I've got to learn the fundamentals first.
http://www.impactguns.com/store/RRA-AR1285.html
And compete in service rifle competitions. They are lots of fun. My next AR purchase will definitely be one of them. In the meantime I just use the clubs rifles.
G
1x9 twist will shoot 55gr to 69gr
1x8 twist will shoot 55gr to 80gr (and possibly higher).
For shooting at 300 or less, I prefer to load 69gr.
For shooting up to 600, I use 77gr or 80gr.
To get the most out of it, get a two stage trigger. Since they are easy to change out, you could get a good single stage, and then upgrade to the two stage when you get better.
There are a number of quality lowers.. I use Stag, but perfer Rock River.
Get the flat top. You can always get a riser if you need, but you can't make it lower if you want..
-Bidah
1x8 twist will shoot 55gr to 80gr (and possibly higher).
For shooting at 300 or less, I prefer to load 69gr.
For shooting up to 600, I use 77gr or 80gr.
To get the most out of it, get a two stage trigger. Since they are easy to change out, you could get a good single stage, and then upgrade to the two stage when you get better.
There are a number of quality lowers.. I use Stag, but perfer Rock River.
Get the flat top. You can always get a riser if you need, but you can't make it lower if you want..
-Bidah
G
Thank you sir! Exactly what I wanted to know.Bidah said:
G
Dan, it is a pleasure to help out a Farscape fan..
Frosty.. when you get to the really light varmit bullets down around 40 grains, they have really light jackets. With a fast twist barrel, you can acutually get them going fast enough that they will separate..
-Bidah
Frosty.. when you get to the really light varmit bullets down around 40 grains, they have really light jackets. With a fast twist barrel, you can acutually get them going fast enough that they will separate..
-Bidah
G
Bidah said:Dan, it is a pleasure to help out a Farscape fan..
-Bidah
It's about time I met another one. You, sir, have fine taste in television and firearms.
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
