I need to remove it, how do i get it off with the blue loc-tite/gun-tite on it?
no, dont. when putting a lot of torque on the castle nut, you run the risk of gouging the buffer tube channel, galling the threads, etc.+1...put a little em-ay-en into it
I wasn't saying gouge the hell out of it...it was more of a pot-shot at Nikonno, dont. when putting a lot of torque on the castle nut, you run the risk of gouging the buffer tube channel, galling the threads, etc.
remember, we are dealing with steel against aluminum threads. be gentle.
Heat the castle nut till hot, and it should come off with minimal force.
OK Nikon... what did you do?Oh well... Thats didn't go too well. :evil:
Time to order another buffer tube, castle nut, rear take down detent/spring, and buffer end plate. :evil::evil:
I love AR's! :mrgreen::evil:
Meh, I have an excuse now to upgrade to a CTR Magpul stock now with milspec receiver.
i hope no one will argue with my NO LOCTITE ON CASTLE NUT rule again.The darn nut was REALLY on there. I torqued it to the point the whole tube just began to spin inside the lower. The nut wouldn't spin for sh**. So basically at that point, it spun the back plate, mangling the detent spring. So I just said screw it and spun it the rest of the way out. The threads on the lower are fine, but the threads on the buffer tube are shot.
Yeah, I have another AR so it's no sweat really.bum deal dude, at least you get to upgrade now