[Guest]

I need to remove it, how do i get it off with the blue loc-tite/gun-tite on it?

 

[Guest]

hit it with a torch.....not until red hot, but until "damn" hot.

this is one of the biggest reasons i tell people to STAY away from any sort of thread locker at the castle nut. when you get it off and re-install, stake the castle nut properly, and leave the loctite in the drawer.

 

[Guest]

with the wrench
blue isn't permanent.

 

[Guest]

with the wrench
blue isn't permanent.

+1...put a little em-ay-en into it

 

[Guest]

back in my paintball days (they use loctite there too) you can use a hair dryer to get it hot and it will soften the loctite up

 

[Guest]

+1...put a little em-ay-en into it

no, dont. when putting a lot of torque on the castle nut, you run the risk of gouging the buffer tube channel, galling the threads, etc.
remember, we are dealing with steel against aluminum threads. be gentle.

Heat the castle nut till hot, and it should come off with minimal force.

 

[Guest]

no, dont. when putting a lot of torque on the castle nut, you run the risk of gouging the buffer tube channel, galling the threads, etc.
remember, we are dealing with steel against aluminum threads. be gentle.

Heat the castle nut till hot, and it should come off with minimal force.

I wasn't saying gouge the hell out of it...it was more of a pot-shot at Nikon

 

[Guest]

Best to try removing Blue Loctite with no heat since heat can destroy the temper of the aluminum and weaken it. The Blue is not all that strong in the first place. You might try putting the receiver and stock into the freezer and then trying to loosen it as the metal will contract and may break the bond for you.

Another possibility is solvent action. Some folks have had success with old magic WD-40 penetrating and loosening the Loctite. Another solvent concept is counter-intuitive but it is said to work wonders. Put fresh Loctite on and it will start dissolving the old Loctite. The you can use mechanical force to get the nut off.

If you give her some heat, she will loosen up but you may damage the metal so do so with caustion and the minimum amount necessary.

I use Blue threadlocker on my motorcycle parts all the time and often we get steel-aluminum interfaces. You never want to overtorque aluminum. It simply hasn't got the strength of steel and strips pretty easily.

Now if you had Red Loctite on there and solvent action didn't help then you would have the heat it up pretty hot because the Red stuff is tenacious.

 

[Guest]

Oh well... Thats didn't go too well. :evil:

Time to order another buffer tube, castle nut, rear take down detent/spring, and buffer end plate. :evil::evil:

I love AR's! :mrgreen::evil:

Meh, I have an excuse now to upgrade to a CTR Magpul stock now with milspec receiver.

 

[Guest]

Oh well... Thats didn't go too well. :evil:

Time to order another buffer tube, castle nut, rear take down detent/spring, and buffer end plate. :evil::evil:

I love AR's! :mrgreen::evil:

Meh, I have an excuse now to upgrade to a CTR Magpul stock now with milspec receiver.

OK Nikon... what did you do?
:???::???::???:

 

[Guest]

OK Nikon... what did you do?
:???::???::???:

 

[Guest]

He must be embarrassed.

 

[Guest]

I have cheater bars for all of my wrenches.... slide one on and increase your leverage.

 

[Guest]

The darn nut was REALLY on there. I torqued it to the point the whole tube just began to spin inside the lower. The nut wouldn't spin for sh**. So basically at that point, it spun the back plate, mangling the detent spring. So I just said screw it and spun it the rest of the way out. The threads on the lower are fine, but the threads on the buffer tube are shot.

 

[Guest]

The darn nut was REALLY on there. I torqued it to the point the whole tube just began to spin inside the lower. The nut wouldn't spin for sh**. So basically at that point, it spun the back plate, mangling the detent spring. So I just said screw it and spun it the rest of the way out. The threads on the lower are fine, but the threads on the buffer tube are shot.

i hope no one will argue with my NO LOCTITE ON CASTLE NUT rule again.

stake the damn thing. it was made to be staked folks! (this isnt directed at you nikon, just yelling from the mountaintop:mrgreen

 

[Guest]

Yeah lesson learned. That damn thing wouldn't spin for SH!T.

Oh well, time to order a CTR stock. :mrgreen:

 

[Guest]

bum deal dude, at least you get to upgrade now

 

[Guest]

bum deal dude, at least you get to upgrade now

Yeah, I have another AR so it's no sweat really.

My stock has been slightly canted to the right for some time now, and I decided to try and finally fix it tonight. The problem (obviously) is I couldn't get the castle nut off to spin the tube so it was no longer canted. The rest is history as they say.


Anybody know if Magpul's OD green matches the OD green Houge rubber AR grip?

 

[Guest]

Well Nikon... Sh#t happens. Upgrade, upgrade, upgrade!
You might want to try one of those ACE Skeleton stocks. While it is a fixed stock, you can pick the regular or the shorty size. I have one and I like it a lot. The foam on the tube is pretty nice when you are shooting.

 

[Guest]

Good ol' RRA hosing down the castle nut with blue loctite because that just as good as staking it. :lol:




not laughing at you Nikon