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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
And please understand, I know there are assholes everywhere.

But I'm not one. And like you guys said, it's a gun forum with a bunch of dudes, so if I get smartassery, I'll toss some right back. No big deal guys. Seems like y'all were more offended than I.

But we're all here for guns. Lovely XDs, and this small forum for us weirdo "gun people" with ARs.
 
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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
There's nothing wrong with giving some playful ribs back, but calling people "assholes" is a good way to give the impression that someone pulled your pigtails a bit too hard on the playground. That's not playing back - that's being intentionally abrasive. I don't really GAS, but it's not the best way to introduce yourself.

Back to the problem you're having, how about this: when you go to reassemble the FCG, follow this guide

:: Guides

Once it's together, conduct a function check on it, and report back. I'm sure we can get you up and running, it just may take some time.
 
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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Safety looks ok to me. Possible something messed up with trigger hook or disconnector. I've never had this problem before. Good luck and keep us posted.

Sufficient unto the day is the evil thereof.
 
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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
"Verify that hammer locks to the rear when pushed back.
Verify that hammer pivots forward when trigger is pressed.
Without releasing the trigger, push the hammer back again and verify that it locks (caught by disconnector).
Releasing the trigger should not cause the hammer to pivot fully forward (caught by trigger).
Hammer will fall when trigger is pressed."

I hold the trigger back after releasing the hammer on fire, push the hammer back again, release the trigger, trigger disconnects and does not fully release, switch to safety, squeeze the trigger again and the hammer drops I'd say 5/8 of the way.
 
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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Yupp. Thanks for the help.

Not completely fixed, but my trigger was definitely not working as a two stage trigger.
 
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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Something is not correct. Also is it possible that the prior owner fiddled with the fire control group resulting in your major safety issue? I for one am inclined to think so. Manufacturing an after market match type fire control group that could even remotely malfunction in your fashion would be a very major league law suit just waiting to happen. IMHO that possibility is very unlikely. I think somebody fooled around with your gun. FWIW. HB of CJ (old coot) :( :(

hundreds of AR builds.
 
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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Either your safety lever is out of specs or the receiver bore for the safety/selector is too high or the trigger extension is not thick enough to prevent pulling the trigger. With the safety on and trigger pulled the hammer binds because the on safety position will not allow the trigger nose to clear the bottom of the hammer.
If you have access to a mil spec trigger group install it and see what happens. Or better yet get out the calipers and compare bore locations to a known good receiver.
You need to check everything including disconnector function.
A malfunctioning safety is a very serious problem and to DIYs...Your build malfunctions and someone gets hurt of killed not only are you going to have to live with that an attorney can sue you into oblivion.
 

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All the parts seem to be there, it switches from fire to safety as it should, but the trigger will still pull while its switched to safety.

The trigger is a KAC 2 stage 4.5 trigger, but I've had 3.5 trigger that were heavier than this. I didn't install the trigger, I just got the gun on a trade and noticed the safety doesn't prevent the trigger from being pulled. Not a huge problem, but I would appreciate the help. I'll post pics of possible.
This is 8 years old but I had this issue today and figured out the issue,

My Hammer pin had walked itself out a pit and was protruding on the ejection side of the gun. In this state, it was firing and operating normally but had the following issues.

1. The gun would allow me to put it in safe even without having the hammer back
2. The gun would drop the hammer if the trigger was pulled even when in the "Safe" position.

This was fixed by tapping that pin all the way in so it was going through the receiver all the way. This is the first time these pins have walked on me. I may consider getting anti walk pins if it happens again.
 

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I can't think of one singe reason to ever take an AR to a gunsmith. Whatever's wrong is a simple fix, I can guarantee you that. Forrest Gump could figure it out in a couple of minutes. :rolleyes:

I'm not familiar with that particular trigger, but I have installed many aftermarket AR triggers. Fitting the safety correctly is pretty simple. If that trigger has overtravel and engagement adjustments like the JP system, then it's probably as simple as adjusting the engagement.
That’s it….👍 my JP did that same thing.. dropped the adjustment down a half turn or so… easy fix..
 

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Internet sparring is waste of time. So back to the issue. There is a reason there are gunsmiths. Plowing into something a critical as your safety issue is not difficult if you have a manual or parts diagram. But having a sense of mechanical appitude is something else. Some have it, some dont. Take it a gunsmith if you have any doubt of your ability. Its what they are there for. Some will take look, and if it takes just a few minute to fix, they will do it right there and not even charge you. yeah, I kow, thats rare nowadays..... But look, you have about a $800 rifle. right? And right now, its dangerous to use........... If you are in doubt of your ability to fix it, digging in can result in missing or broken parts.
 
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