[Guest]

Probably a stupid question, but I got a Phantom brake for Christmas and now I want to put it on... how are Flash Hiders/Brakes threaded? Standard "right-tighty..." and from which perspective? It would make sense to me that, if the barrel were pointed at my chest, I would go counter-clockwise to remove it, correct? I just don't wanna break anything!

 

[Guest]

In my experience, and watching my gun smith friend put a muzzle brakes on a rifle the other day, it was what you mentioned. If the barrel is pointing at your chest, it is "righty tigtly" meaning clockwise to tighten and counter clockwise to loosen. The way that my gunsmith friend did it was slipping a small metal rod through the holes and using it to turn. Keep in mind that muzzle brakes are usually "timed" with any flutes or the center of your barrel. This might not be as big of a deal to you, but to some people, it's a huge ordeal if it's not centered. My gunsmith used a barrel vice to hold the barrel tightly so that he was able to properly tighten the muzzle brake.

 

[Guest]

Just remember that some factory brakes are pinned on.

 

[Guest]

I think mine has a counter thread nut at the bottom. If not familier with this, it is a nut that is tightened up against the brake to help keep it from coming loose.

 

[Guest]

Ok thanks guys. I'm going to have a buddy at the gun shop put my rails on in the next few days, so I'll probably just have him put that on too. I'm hoping it's not pinned on; it's a 16" barrel.

 

[Guest]

well i doubt its pinned if its a 16" barrel.
my flash hidder has a closed bottem so you have to use washers and whatnot to get it on the right way

 

[Guest]

well i doubt its pinned if its a 16" barrel.
my flash hidder has a closed bottem so you have to use washers and whatnot to get it on the right way

All flashiders use either a crush washer, split washer, or a peel washer except for the Vortex to hold them tight. The Vortex is self tightening.

The "right way" as you mention is called "timing".

Mike

 

[Guest]

Mvician is correct about the washers. Typically there are 2 types of flash hiders. A1 and A2 style which refers to the positioning of slots on the hider.

A1 has slots all the way around and A2 only has slots mostly on the top and sides (the bottom should be the solid part). I am using a modified YHM Phantom comp on my 9mm MP5 and I like it well.

The crush/peel washer allows you to tighten it up enough to get the slots upwards while not letting the hider loosen over time.

As for removing the old hider, if you use a half inch wrench (or AR tool) near the back of the hider where it is supposed to go will be a no brainer, and possibly some heat from a torch sometimes helps if it's really being stubborn.

If you're looking down on it and the reciever is to your left and the muzzle is to your right, pull the wrench toward you to loosen. Expect some resistance and don't be afraid to really put some elbow grease on it when you're taking it off because it shouldn't come off too easily.

Righty tighty is correct.

 

[Guest]

a few different AR flash hiders in my "parts box"

L-R A2, Smith Vortex, A1 "duckbill"

Noveske KX3 "Flaming Pig"

 

[Guest]

Thanks again for the info, guys! I tucked the upper in my vise this morning (mounting the vise was the REAL ordeal though, lol) and had the A2 off in no time. It came off really easily. Then I got my Phantom on, but there was no way to get it to line up properly...the bottom was on the top, 180 degrees off. It took a little bit of umpf to get it around, which I was able to, but I was worried about over torquing it...don't have a t-wrench. I tried and tried, but it would only thread on so that it's always 180 off, which lead me to believe that it was okay to turn it the remaining 180.

Anyway, it looks great and I'm hoping to shoot it soon...if we don't get more snow!!

Also, got a mag coupler, two P-Mags w/windows, and an Ergo grip for CHRISTmas! It looks freakin' sweet now, IMO. I'll post pics once I get my FF Rails on! :twisted:

 

[Guest]

yup, when you hand thread them (Phantom, I have done 3 of them) on they will be anywhere from 180 degrees or more from being positioned right. Just keep cranking.

 

[Guest]

Cool beans. I had this fear that the cranking crunched something inside, and the first bullet I fire is gonna blow up, lol. Thanks for easing my concerns! :mrgreen:

 

[Guest]

that's why they call it a "crush" washer

 

[Guest]

Just remember that some factory brakes are pinned on.

so if its pinned.. can you still turn it.. or would it just break?

 

[Guest]

so if its pinned.. can you still turn it.. or would it just break?

Not without breaking something.
Brakes were "pinned and welded" over during the ban.
They can be removed

 

[Guest]

Thought I'd tell you guys that the Phantom worked well! Just shot about 100 through it this afternoon at the farm and had a blast. It was nice getting outside with the Aimpoint for the first time, too. The mag coupler was fun to use, and I really do like the Pmags, which worked nicely too. :mrgreen:

It was a good day! I'd post pictures, but we forgot the camera at home.