[Guest]

OK, what's the deal on a STAG FSB removal? I'm getting things ready to install my rails, but these dang pins just don't seem to want to budge. I don't really want to cut the FSB and everything else off, particularly with it still on the barrel, but it's really starting to look like that may be what I will need to do, I already have a couple idiot marks and would like to keep those to a minimum, even though those will be covered by the rail, and a touch up with some perma blue.

I've read that someone had to use an arbor press to remove the taper pins on a Stag. That route would be a tad cheaper than the Brownell's red front sight removal base, but that gadget would still have me banging on these seemingly immovable suckers.

At this point I'll probably just get a press from harbor freight, unless someone here has another suggestion.

 

[Guest]

I dont know but I tried to remove my removable handle the other day and I couldnt get it off. I just left the sucker on but I wanted to try to mount my scope from my Savage rifle.

 

[Guest]

Have you tried a BFH?

 

[Guest]

In your case it maybe (BIG MAYBE) loc-tite. My flash hider had the blue loc-tite on it.

 

[Guest]

Have you tried a BFH?

LOL, yes BFH and BFP (punch). Seriously, I was starting to deform the heads of the various punches I was using, So I backed off. Plus I didn't want to over stress anything...... Myself included.

 

[Guest]

In your case it maybe (BIG MAYBE) loc-tite. My flash hider had the blue loc-tite on it.

What can I use to get the knobs/screws off?

Sorry for my lack of technical terms.

 

[Guest]

If they did use loc-tite:
Blue: Can be removed with hand tools
Red: Apply heat to remove
Green: Apply heat to remove

assuming the knobs are slotted; maybe try a quarter and a pair of vice grips, or a thin enough bar that you can use as a lever.

 

[Guest]

If they did use loc-tite:
Blue: Can be removed with hand tools
Red: Apply heat to remove
Green: Apply heat to remove

assuming the knobs are slotted; maybe try a quarter and a pair of vice grips, or a thin enough bar that you can use as a lever.

Good suggestion.

My rifle looks like this:

Can I take that handle off and just slap a scope I got on my .22 rifle without getting any other mounts? I just wanna see what it would look like. I'm guess the sight picture would be blocked by the front post.

 

[Guest]

If the scope on your .22 has rings you ought to be able to mount it up. Unless you are focusing on it, you will hardly notice the FS. If you're wanting a scope for that Stag check out the Millet DMS-1 (Midway had em on sale awhile back, about $200 IIRC) I picked one up and it's almost got me wondering if I need my Eotech.

Those screws are probably just cranked on really tight.

I got my taper pins out, threw caution to the wind (mostly, I taped first) and got pissed off at it.

If looking at the muzzle they came out left to right.

 

[Guest]

I got my taper pins out [...] got pissed off at it.

I should have suggested the EBFH. Even Bigger ******* Hammer. Would have saved you some aggravation and time.

Tell me something about those carrying handles like the one on Lazarus' STAG. They don't come with uppers, right? You have to buy them separately?

 

[Guest]

Tell me something about those carrying handles like the one on Lazarus' STAG. They don't come with uppers, right? You have to buy them separately?

I know RRA sells the upper complete with the carry handle or you can get it separate.

 

[Guest]

If the scope on your .22 has rings you ought to be able to mount it up. Unless you are focusing on it, you will hardly notice the FS. If you're wanting a scope for that Stag check out the Millet DMS-1 (Midway had em on sale awhile back, about $200 IIRC) I picked one up and it's almost got me wondering if I need my Eotech.

Those screws are probably just cranked on really tight.

I got my taper pins out, through caution to the wind (mostly, I taped first) and got pissed off at it.

If looking at the muzzle they came out left to right.

Thanks AJ. I'll try it tomorrow.

 

[Guest]

I should have suggested the EBFH. Even Bigger ******* Hammer. Would have saved you some aggravation and time.

Tell me something about those carrying handles like the one on Lazarus' STAG. They don't come with uppers, right? You have to buy them separately?

Yeah, when all else fails get a bigger hammer. Everything is going fast at this point, as I type this I have just my barrel sitting in my lap.

It depends on the upper, some come with one, some don't. I'm still a little on the fence as to what I think of them. On the one hand you get the fixed sights that many first got used to in the military, and the classic AR/M16 lines. On the other though the screws provide more snag points and odds are I'm not going to lug my carbine around like a freaking suitcase. YMMV.

Time for a beer.

 

[Guest]

Lazarus, you could do that, you will need rings that will work with a Picatinny rail (MIL Standard 1913 rail cuts). For most scopes, the FSP blurs or just flat isn't in the field of view.

 

[Guest]

Soak that bad boy in WD40 .. and or apply heat.

 

[Guest]

Lazarus, you could do that, you will need rings that will work with a Picatinny rail (MIL Standard 1913 rail cuts). For most scopes, the FSP blurs or just flat isn't in the field of view.

Thanks and I dont have any WD but I think I got a can of PB around here somewhere.

 

[Guest]

OK, now how about gas blocks? My Barrel doesn't have the "divots" required for the Larue low profile gas block, and I'm not really interested in sending my barrel to someone to have them drilled.

I only have a couple requirement in the needed GB.
1. It must fut under a set of Larue rails. 2. No gunsmithing required.

I was thinking of the VLTOR clamp on, but I read that it will not fit. However, the set screw one will.

 

[Guest]

right off the page at LT

LT Low-profile gas block are necessary when extending your free-float handguard past your barrels gas port. LT Gas Blocks are lightweight, strong and small enough to use with almost any handguard. They mount using two set screws located at the bottom, so gun-smithing will be needed on barrels without divots.


The divots they speak of are the holes (divots) where the tapered pins were.

 

[Guest]

The "divots" are at the bottom of the gas block, not on the sides where the pins were. Some believe they are not necessary, I had a 16" barreled RRA without "divots", never loosened. Had over 6k rounds fired with it. I am currently finishing up on a 16" ArmaLite M4 upper with the 203 cut, no plans on drilling "divots"
Here is a pic of the Larue Tactical gas block I used.

 

[Guest]

Those setscrews go into the "divots" left by the pins on the bottom of the barrel.